The Eclipse is a Cartier pocket watch format distinguished by its shutter mechanism: a pair of spring-loaded panels concealed the dial entirely when the watch was closed. Pressing the cabochon sapphire-set crown released the shutters, which opened to reveal the dial. The design is associated with Edmond Jaeger, whose relationship with Cartier as a movement and complication supplier was formalized in 1907.
Case and Dial
The standard Eclipse is a round hunter-case pocket watch in 18-carat gold, approximately 46mm in diameter. When the shutters are closed, the front presents a smooth, unbroken surface of polished or engine-turned gold, giving no indication that a dial lies beneath. Pressing the cabochon sapphire-set crown releases the spring-loaded shutter panels, which part to reveal the dial. The dial is typically white enamel with Roman numerals in black, a fine minute chapter ring, and blued steel hands (Breguet-style on some examples, sword-type on others).
Patents and Mechanism
Two patents were filed by Cartier for variants of the Eclipse mechanism. The first, no. 412,821, was issued in 1910. The second, no. 16,918, filed in 1913, covered a two-dial version of the format. The standard Eclipse case was a hunter case in 18-carat gold, approximately 46 millimetres in diameter. The standard movement was a nickel-finished lever calibre of 18 jewels with a bimetallic compensation balance.
The pocket watch version was produced across the pre-war and interwar periods, with a wristwatch version also known.
The Eclipse in the Purse Watch Format
The shutter mechanism was later adapted for Cartier's purse watches of the 1920s and 1930s. A purse watch version from around 1930 used sprung shutters released by cabochon sapphire-set pushers set into black lacquered side panels; pressing both pushers simultaneously revealed an off-white dial with Roman numerals and blued steel moon hands. The engine-turned gold case with jagged black enamel borders measured 41 by 28.5 millimetres. The purse watch adaptation is covered in the Cartier Purse Watch entry.
Sources
- Francesca Cartier Brickell, The Cartiers (Ballantine Books, 2019)
- French patent no. 412,821 (1910), Eclipse shutter mechanism
- French patent no. 16,918 (1913), two-dial Eclipse variant
- Christie's, Jewels Online Geneva Edit, November 2023: Cartier Art Deco enamel 'A Eclipse' purse watch, CHF 8,820
