In 1904, when the 29-year-old Louis Cartier sat — or rather proudly reclined — for this sketch by the well-known artist Emile Friant, he was on his way up in the world.
When he had joined his father Alfred in the family business a few years earlier, Cartier had been a little-known local jeweller selling all manner of jewels, timepieces and curiosities bought in from external workshops.
Since then, Louis had been busy: first, he had agreed (albeit reluctantly) to a financially rewarding arranged marriage with the granddaughter of the most famous fashion designer in the world; next, he had helped relocate Cartier to the prestigious Rue de la Paix (thanks in no small part to that unhappy but strategically successful marriage — it is no coincidence that his in-laws' Maison Worth was just a couple of doors down); and thirdly, he had introduced what he called "the flattering Cartier Style."
"In the past, the jeweller's art consisted only in assembling beautiful stones," explained Louis. "We wanted to return to the earlier traditions and give the jewellery a more artistic character, while at the same time modernising it."
This unique style, along with his experiments using platinum as a mount for diamonds, would revolutionise the jewellery world. It would also set Cartier apart from its peers in the eyes of some of the best clients in the world. No wonder Louis is looking ever so slightly smug: "Creatively he was a genius," my grandfather recalled of his uncle.
"But he didn't lack confidence, let's put it that way!"
More about the brilliant, complicated, often infuriating but much-loved Louis can be found in the book.
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